Since they launched Tome just five years ago, designers Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin have proved they have a knack for elegant forms. For their Fall 2017 RTW collection, the two channeled that talent to create a collection that was all about women’s empowerment.
Lobo and Martin aren’t the only two designers at NYFW to reference the international women’s marches that took place less than one month ago, but their approach was more direct than it has been at other shows thus far. First, in keeping with tradition of their past presentations, the designers sprinkled a few plus-sized models as well as a silver-haired 64-year-old into their cast, making the strong statement that Tome’s clothes are for all women. Other statements came in the form of badges on the clothes themselves–a pink pin affixed to the lapel of a cropped jacket proclaimed solidarity to planned parenthood, while yellow patches shaped like bananas paid homage to Guerilla Girls, an anonymous group of female artists devoted to fighting sexism.
On the runway, the women flaunted pieces that were sculpted yet liberating. A black and white blazer that bore the outline of an idealistically slim female torso with buttons for nipples tricked the eyes into thinking it was much more fitted than it actually was, while a corseted button-down appeared uncharacteristically unencumbering. Pencil Skirts grazed the calves of models and were mostly paired with concealing long tops or blazers, and trousers were worn underneath anything from a sophisticated dress-and-obi-belt combo, to long, shiny patent leather rain coats in black and pink.
Woven into these tailored pieces were softer touches: a mid-length dress made of gilded velvet, a yellow silk skirt peeking out from underneath a black leather trench, and tufts of black fur creeping up the cuffs and sleeves of dresses and jackets. In the end, the Tome woman found strength in looser silhouettes and power in the details.